The coast which spans from Qbajjar to Reqqa Point is synonymous with salt production. In fact the historical saltpans, which still cater for the island’s salt demand, are located within an area of about three kilometres. From above, the saltpans seem like a big checkboard. Each pan or reservoir – traditionally called skandlor – has a particular role in the production of salt.
The salt pans at Xwejni passed from one generation to another and are still in use. During the summer months, one can watch locals scraping the sea salt before they store it in one of the adjacent caves.
The process of making salt through evaporation goes back to Phoenician and Roman times. During the British occupation of Gozo salt-harvesting was revived when the Government offered concessions for local people to work them and share-own them.
These salt pans have been in use for centuries and are typically carved into the coastal rock or constructed using stone walls to contain the seawater. The months preceding the beginning of the salt production season are usually devoted to the maintenance of the pans. Stone erosion is one of the reasons why salt pans get damaged.
Salt pans contribute to the local economy and cultural heritage of the region as the salt harvested from these pans is known for its purity and unique flavour.
The two main families who still produce salt using traditional methods are the Cini and Attard families. Both of them have a tradition of the salt industry that goes back to the 19th century.
When one arrives at Xwejni Bay (on the left side) and start walking along the coast, one will immediately notice the Attard family saltpans, the largest at Xwejni. Alfred Attard, who is currently the largest salt producer, inherited the salt work from his in-laws, the Axiaq family. He learned the methods of collecting salt directly from them and has been doing this work for more than 50 years. The Attard family own the first two salt stores located in rock-cut caves with green doors. In the past, due to lack of transportation – one of the traditional dates in the annual calendar of the Attard and Axiaq families used to be the feast of St. Anne which is celebrated on 26 July. Gozitans used to come to Xwejni to buy a supply of salt for a whole year. The Attard and Axiaq families used to sell salt from two selling points: from near their salt pans, where people from the south of Gozo usually came, as well as from another place near Ras ir-Reqqa Point- where the same family owns other salt pans to this day – and there used to come villagers from the north of the island.
Despite the hard work involved in the production of salt, the Attard family especially Alfred still enjoys doing this work and above all is proud of the quality of his product. Alfred’s daughter, Marilyn Attard, aspires to also continue on this work together with her husband Shaun. Recently, in 2023, Alfred Attard and his company: Natural Xwejni Sea Salt was instrumental in organizing together with the Santa Marija Philharmonic Society (Żebbug) and with the collaboration of the Żebbug Local Council, the first edition of the Salt Festival ever held on the island of Gozo. When interviewed by Mario Cassar, Alfred Attard stated:
“The salt collection season from the salt pans starts in April, after the maintenance process has been carried out on the salt pan, the salt starts to be collected once a week until September. In order to avoid the blazing summer sun, we usually collect the salt before dawn.”
Using sea-water evaporation to produce sea-salt has changed little over the centuries. Sea water is pumped from the sea into large feeding pools and there the salt-water becomes highly concentrated. This is then passed into the smaller and shallower pans.
After the water dries out, salt crystals are brushed from the pans and piled up. The salt is carried in buckets to be stored inside the caves. After a highly salty substance naturally pours out of the salt and ends up in an age-old drain within the cave, the salt is bagged up into packets to be sold in local shops. The process at the salt pans starts over again and again until the season ends.
The only tools that are used in salt production are the brushes for sweeping the salt, the bucket, the spade and the motor pump.
Although the harvesting process seems simple, there are many factors that can ruin the salt harvest. Examples are high westerly winds, humidity, storms or rain – or people stepping onto the pans and contaminating the salt crystals.
Another family that is synonymous with salt harvesting is the Cini family. The Cinis have been active with their family business at least since the 1860s. Josephine Xuereb is a 5th generation salt-farmer continuing the family tradition of her mother Rosa’s family. Her family are synonymous with salt.
Josephine says: “My father Manuel is known all over the world as ‘Leli Tal-Melh’ which means Manuel The Salt Man. He’s been producing salt since 1969, when he married my mother Rosa and they revived her family’s business. Salt harvesting then was dying out because it is physically very hard, back-breaking work. But after my mother met my father, she taught him the trade – they fell in love, they fell in love with the salt pans and the rest is history. Today, 50 years later they are both still harvesting salt. The salt preserved their love and preserved the local trade as well.”
Josephine compares salt production to the delicate traditional of lacework. While in the latter silk thread is use, in the production of salt there are three natural elements that contribute to the production of salt. These are the sun, the sea and the wind.
Visitors to the salt pans can explore the area, observe the salt production process – during specific times of the year – and enjoy walks along the coastline. It’s also a popular spot for photography, especially during sunrise and sunset when the salt pans and surrounding landscapes are bathed in beautiful light.
While visiting the salt pans it is imperative to respect the signs and avoid walking directly onto the salt pans. Private areas that are marked as such are not to be trespassed.
Photo credits: Soċjeta’ Banda Santa Marija, Żebbuġ Gozo Local Council, Xwejni Salt Leli tal-Melħ, Alfred Attard – Natural Xwejni Sea Salt
Research: Mario Cassar
Copyright: Soċjeta’ Banda Santa and Żebbuġ Gozo Local Council
