Xwejni beach is one of the most picturesque beaches in Gozo. This is because of the beauty of the sea that surrounds it but also because of the surrounding geological rock formations. These include the cliffs, which because they are made of limestone, have been eroded by salt, creating a very interesting smooth surface
The name Xwejni means “a little galleon”. This is a reminder to the maritime activity of the beach but it also refers to the distant past when pirates used to anchor in the beach and pillage the surrounding villages, mostly Żebbuġ. In fact, the village still preserves several legends linked to its patron saint, the Virgin Mary who interceded to defend the village from invaders. An old legend features a boy who lived in the vicinity of Xwejni, and who was raped by Arab invaders who came from Tunisia. The renowned Maltese historian Prof. Horatio C. R. Vella maintains that the story was actually confirmed when some Gozitans, migrating to Tunisia for work, met a Gozitan from Żebbuġ, who confirmed the incident.
Apart from the toponym Xwejni, there are several placenames ascribed to the area around the beach. These include Il-Qolla l-Bajda and the underlying Għar ta’ Santa Marija, together with is-Swejda, the name of the dark rocky coast that stretches from the eastern side of the beach to the Qolla l-Bajda. But what are the main landmarks of Xwejni?
These include:
Xwejni Beach
Xwejni’s own pebbled beach is very popular for swimming, especially in summer. It is also also very sought after for diving and snorkeling.
In the middle of the beach there is a particular rock that was gilded with gold leaf by the Maltese artist Austin Camilleri (1972- ) This was part of the project stones (1999), which consisted of gilded stones located in strategic areas across the Maltese archipelago.
The Saltpans
The historic salt pans are found in the western side of the beach and extend till Reqqa Point. There are also some by the side of St. Mary Battery but these are unproductive. The salt pans of Xwejni are still worked by several families hailing from Żebbuġ, who work hard in the production of the precious mineral. The salt harvest is aimed at the local market and at tourists who visit Xwejni. For more information about the salt pans and the salt production, you are kindly invited to access the information through the QR code of The Zebbug Heritage Trail located nearby.
The Salt Storage Caves
Around the beach of Xwejni and beyond one finds several caves that were intended for the storage of salt. Some of them are still used for this purpose. Two particular producers, the Çini and Attard family have a large stock of salt in their caves, which serve as a tourist attraction in the area. Many of those caves have been abandoned, also because their entrances have been widened through erosion. One of them belonged to the 18th century Gozitan historian, Can. Gian Pietro Agius de Soldanis.
The Boathouses
Apart from the salt storage caves, one can notice several boathouses dug in the surrounding cliffs to by fishermen for the storage of their boats. Some of these caves are partly built with hardstone in order to resist the strong salt erosion. To the west of Xwejni beach there are several garages built in more recent times and which were used by fishermen too. The old boathouses inspired the great Maltese artist Pawl Carbonaro (1948- ) several times. In fact, many are represented in his canvases.
St. Mary Battery
St. Mary Battery was built between 1715 and 1716 during the time of Grandmaster Ramon Perellos y Roccaful (1697-1720). The building was under the direction of the military engineers Jacques de Camus D’ Arginy and Bernard de Fontet. For more information about this important fortification, you are requested to visit the battery, located on the eastern side of Xwejni Bay and access the information through the QR code of the Żebbuġ Heritage Trail, which is located in its vicinity.
Il-Qolla l-Bajda
One of the landmarks in the Xwejni area is Il-Qolla l-Bajda. This is a conical geological structure or hillock in the shape of a dome or jar – hence the Maltese name qolla. The cave inside the structure, called L- Għar ta’ Santa Marija or St. Mary’s Cave, was formed through salt erosion. The hillock is very picturesque and has been widely photographed and painted.
According to the well-known Maltese geologist George Zammit Maempel “in Qolla l-Bajda the upper division of the limestone is divided into gray and whitish elements, a characteristic that is not normal for a Maltese environment.”
Unfortunately, when one compares the structure of the Qolla today with old photographs, one can notice the huge toll erosion is having of the hillock. The deterioration taking place is relentless. Sometimes large boulders collapse in the nearby cliff making one think that the hillock may eventually collapse as was the case of Marsalforn’s Għar Qawqla Marsalforn and Dwejra’s Azure Window.
The rocky surroundings of Il-Qolla l-Bajda have inspired Maltese artist Mario Cassar (1975 – ) for an unrealized project entitled An Installation to Comb the Breeze (2009). This installation presents imaginary bronze structures that interact with the fierce winds in winter or with the gentle breeze felt in the bay during hot summers.
Photo credits: Mario Cassar, Leo Cefai, Austin Camilleri Studio, Mrs. Silvana Mercieca
References
Zammit Maempel, G. (1996). The Geology of Gozo in Farrugia, G. &
Briguglio, L. (ed.) (1996) “A Focus on Gozo”. Malta: Formatek Ltd.
Riċerka: Mario Cassar
Copyright: Soċjeta’ Banda Santa and Żebbuġ Gozo Local Council
